As you zoom up the West Coast Main Line between Birmingham and Wolverhampton, you pass an impressive variety of scenery, including canals, derelict factories and industrial estates as well as housing and wasteland. The most unexpected thing is perhaps the large amount of green space you pass, especially in the vicinity of Tipton. For me, this is the iconic Black Country town – a conglomeration of settlements built up into an urban district by successive waves of industrialisation, to become one of the key areas for both manufacturing and extraction in the region. Today, in common with many post-industrial towns in the country, it’s a deprived, slightly desolate place, the subject of both jokes and government policy.
The railway passes the Sheepwash LNR on the right, then passing through Dudley Port reaches Tipton station. Beyond here is what’s formally called Tibbington Open Space, but is better known to most as The Cracker, a mix of open grass and woodland. Tibbington is in fact the old name for Tipton – which was recorded as Tibintone in the Domesday Book – but is now understood as the Tibbington Estate, built by Tipton UDC in the 1920s and 30s and built up further in the 50s. The public perception of Tipton stems from estates such as this – a highly mono-ethnic (white) area associated with racism, antisocial behaviour and unemployment. There’s been a slew of community-focused attempts at regeneration as a result, some of which – like MADE’s “Gaming the Tibby” – look really great and innovative.
The Cracker is best known for its horses. A quick Google will show them turning up in the Daily Mail, the Express & Star, the BBC and even Hansard – again, they seem to be something of a representative type of the Black Country, across which you can find dozens and dozens of such osses. When I moved up to the Black Country I was told quite clearly that Stourbridge was the posh bit, because they keep their horses in the garden, wheras in Tipton they live in the kitchen. These ponies graze this large, ramshackle piece of open space as they’ve done for many, many years, and local owners have been defending their rights to do so based on this tradition.
But is that right? Certainly the tradition of keeping horses goes back a long way, from the days of pit ponies and horsedrawn boats on the cut. But The Tibby has only been there since the 30s, and The Cracker since the 1970s – so what is it?
In the map below, from 1887, you can see that what is now the Tibbington Estate is almost entirely industrial. The orange layer shows the housing itself, bounded by the now infilled Wednesbury Oak Loop canal on the south and west and the Princes End branch line to the north, incorporating mostly disused coal and clay pits in the south of the area, and Tibbington Collieries and Summer Hill Iron Works in the north. The purple area marks what’s now the Cracker, even then mostly rough, uneven waste ground between the Bloomfield and Tipton Green works. In fact, waste is the operative word: crack was the foundry effluent that needed to dumped, and this unused spot was the “cracker”, or dump, for the slag from Tipton Green Furnaces.
Over the next twenty years or so, the south of the Cracker became a network of rails serving Tipton Green, while the rest of the land takes on a more and more derelict look. It’s from the 30s that we see the big changes. The tract of disused land within the canal loop was built on as the first phase of the Tibby, while on the Cracker the rails are lifted and quarrying commences.
By the 1960s, the rest of the estate has been built, and the Cracker is now mostly just slag heaps. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the new Sandwell MB filled in the land with refuse to even it out, and landscaped the surface creating the Tibbington Open Space that we see today. The canal was filled in the 60s, the railway was lifted in the 80s, and Tipton Green works finally closed in the 90s.
From looking at these and many other maps of late, there seems to be a series of step-changes in the physical environment of industrial Britain. Aside from the longue durée of the industrial revolutions which saw landscapes gradually moulded over the course of 150 years, the inter-war years saw the first massive boom in house-building, often (not exclusively) on greenfield sites – this was Lloyd George’s “Homes Fit For Heroes” (announced up the road in Wolverhampton) campaign in action. After the war we entered a new phase: a similar ethic extended to not just returning soldiers but the much-maligned working classes, whose decayed slums were cleared in favour of bold innovations like tower blocks. Perhaps the biggest change in the Black Country, though, stemmed from the economic upheavals of the 60s onwards: the retirement of the South Staffordshire coalfield in 1968; the de-stabilisation of the late 70s with its economic crises; the Thatcher years with their de-industrialising, structural overhauls; and the last twenty/thirty years which have seen a massive shift in national finance away from traditional manufacture towards “soft” industries, insurance, investment banking and the like.
This all comes with a geographical twist – smart though the Colmore Business District in Brum looks, the UK’s centre of this sort of industry remains in London, and we in the provinces rise or fall following what goes on there. For the likes of Tipton, isolated in a post-industrial hinterland, the socio-economic jolts of the last forty years have changed not just the physical environment but the social. Princes End elected a UKipper in this year’s local polls, into an otherwise Labour-dominated Sandwell council; I wonder how accurately it’s possible to trace mistrust of immigrants, low educational aspirations and acute unemployment back to those major changes, which stripped out the industry on which Tipton was built in the first place?
9 thoughts on “The Cracker”
I’ve been taking more photos around Tipton and all the horse owners who meet at the Fiery Holes were in the Express and Star when I took their photos a few weeks ago. You’re right about educational standards. They need teachers in the schools who understand the kids.Changing the names of the schools to academies and the such like won’t change a things. Making them talk posh won’t help either…
Don’t get me started on academies Mike!
Look forward to seeing the pics too.
Thanks to a couple of commenters via the outer-interweb too:
Pòl MacDhòmhnaill says: “People can remember The Cracker as far back as 1900. The Cracker had a small woodland, marl hole where in 1946 a 7lb fresh water eel was pulled out & it was a place where people would keep their oss. Dickey Taylor ex fireman from Richmond street (back off now Great Bridge asda) used to camp in the woods. Is it Jeff Price? may be mentioned him in his book on the Black Country. it stretched from the bottom of the Bee Hive pub to the cut bridge in brick house lane. It was still called The Cracker at the start on the 1990’s, till it vanished when brockhouses factory’s were knocked down during the development of Great Bridge Asda & The Black Country Route.” https://www.facebook.com/william.roberts.58/posts/743796958995848
Tony H mentioned another similar piece of land too, called (excellently) The Ponderosa: https://twitter.com/Tipton21/status/479645253050597376
The Ponderosa was a large 1960/70s council estate on the Wednesbury side of Upper Church lane. It was nicknamed locally after the Ponderosa ranch where the popular tv series of the 1960s called Bonanza was based due to it’s large area. There was also of course the infamous ‘Lost City’ estate nearby, but that’s another story! Most of my family lived on High Street Prices End. My gran’s house was opposite the Seven Stars pub and backed onto the railway line and my grandad was a signalman at Princes End signal box just off Bradley’s lane. I attended the Joint school on Tibbington Terrace which was a good school in those days. Many of us went on to Grammar schools and quite a few off to Universities – unusual in those days. One lad, a real toughie, cock of the school from the Tibbington estate surprised me when I learned that he had attended Uni. Not bad for a bunch of rough arsed working class kids, but the teachers there understood our ways and taught us sympathetically (except for the music teacher with her ever present, oft used, chair leg).
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Back in the sixties, when the line between Birmingham and Wolverhampton was being electrified, the cracker line was used as a Sunday diversion. With the line speed restrictions in place it meant that the journey from Tipton (Owen Street) to Wolverhampton regularly took the best part of an hour; which meant we had less time to ‘bunk’ the sheds at Crewe.
There was once a station between Dudley Port and Oldbury and Bromford Lane (as it then was). The station was called Albion (no connection with the football club) and the disused platforms remained in place for many years; a bit like the remnants of the old Smethwick West are still visible now.
By the way, we have similar website names purely by virtue of a series of coincidences.
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Brings back many memories.Being born and raised in Wood Street Tipton used to explore the cracker with my brother in the 50’s or 60’s